My apologies for taking so long to get around to this entry. I had plenty of time, but typing on a phone just didn't appeal to me this trip the way it did on, say, my earlier trips to the Folsom Street Fair.
So let me begin at the beginning. If you'll recall, my mother passed away on September 3rd. My father passed in 1995. Dad had the idea long ago that we'd scatter their ashes together somewhere along the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia, which is where he proposed to her. Mom had almost thirty years to put the kibosh on that plan, and she didn't. So we executed.
Airlines being what they are, I flew into Roanoke, VA this past Wednesday. The AirBnB that Good Sister found* was a house built in 1890 in a neighborhood, the Old Southwest, full of houses of similar age. I was filled with porch envy. I mean, the ratio of porch area to interior area was probably the highest I've ever seen. Porches with big plants. Porches with swings.
So yeah, I arrived on Wednesday, but Good Sister wasn't going to arrive until Saturday. What to do? Get lots of sweet, sweet information from
dreamsrundeep and then meet up with her and her wife for dinner! You read that right: it was an old-fashioned online-to-meatspace meetup. Shallow fashion details: my sleeveless rose print dress from Pinup Girl Clothing with Fluevog Gladstone boots. I told Burner stories – I can't help myself – either during or after some excellent fried chicken and collard greens at The Hatch in downtown Roanoke.
One of the coffee joints that
dreamsrundeep told me about, Sweet Donkey, is in a old detached brick house with a killer sunlit patio out front surrounded by an immaculate lawn and a low iron fence. In spite of that fairly representative architecture, my information is that it's a queer-friendly establishment. Sure enough, one of the women behind the counter was wearing a black leather vest. Well, okay then.
Indeed, bricks are everywhere there. Roanoke has several brick city sidewalks. I wonder if that's where Dad got the idea for the brick sidewalks that he made leading to the exterior doors of the house I grew up in.
Friday: much sleeping through rain, then an unsuccessful attempt to find ancestors in a small, old cemetery. I found about four Confederate veterans, at least that many Masons, a puzzling amount of unoccupied grave space, and an overwhelming but unsurprising majority with British names. The newest grave was from 1984, and the oldest likely pre-Civil War.
I think I found Roanoke's answer to the Kraken: Jack Brown's Burger Joint. They appear not to do veggies on their burgers, but they do have a solid beer selection, queer and antifa stickers mixed in with those from breweries, and bras hanging from the ceiling.
Another note about Roanoke: it's demographically no bigger than Gainesville, FL, but it looks bigger because it's necessarily denser. Why necessarily? The close-in mountains** enforce that. Gainesville has no natural barriers to sprawl.
Weed is legal in Virginia. There appears to be at least one trans barrista in Roanoke. I found this out on Saturday morning on a quest for caffeine and lunch at a place called RND. They have donuts on Sunday, and avocado toast every day. I find all of that deeply reassuring.
But then I went and got my sister at the airport. We talked amongst ourselves. (I brought a Willamette Valley Pinot Noir.) I'd forgotten how much she's inherited our father's predilection for pontificating. She wants me to crack the whip over my son to get him to launch, which arguably isn't a bad idea. However, she has no say in what I do with what are now my Navajo blankets.
Sunday was the actual ash trip. Not-so-shallow fashion details: I wore the same dress, accessories, and makeup that I did to the opera with Mom. I did add leggings and Fluevog Gladstones because it was the Blue Ridge in October, not Florida in April.
I'm embarrased to admit that I didn't realize that the parkway goes so close to Roanoke until I got there. I thought we were going to be driving a lot longer, and through much scarier places. I brought an automotive phone charger that I ended up not needing.
I tried to get on the Blue Ridge Parkway without using spoken directions, but I overshot it. Good Sister found a specific place along the road and had Google aim me there, driving through tiny towns and rural-ish areas. I only saw one Confederate flag, which might be less than you'd see in Florida. I was reminded of all the times I'd driven through the Klamath Basin in Oregon; the vibe & architecture are similar, but that part of Oregon is much flatter.
We did eventually find the spot, Buck Mountain. "No bikes", said the sign at the trailhead. As the big, strong sister, I got to carry the ash. In heels, because I am the Femme of Steel.
A note about cremated human remains: they're dense and gritty. Mom and Dad together were about the same weight and volume as a five-pound (2.26 kg) sack of flour. We were careful not to recreate a scene from
The Big Lebowski but we did get some "cremains" on our shoes.
But it was an absolutely gorgeous, mostly sunny day in an eastern mountain forest whose leaves were about half red. It was easy to imagine my father in particular loving this place.
Good Sister and I hit Table 50 for dinner. I've inherited my mother's love of bread pudding. Two thumbs up.
In summation, I found the queers, weed, and hipster eats and coffee. The Klan did not git me as I feared it might. And I had a beautiful walk in the eastern woods on a sunny day. My sister and I didn't even come close to physically harming each other.
My parents are laid to rest, and their children at peace.
Oh: the investment firm that has Mom's retirement money is refusing to give any to Good Sister or me until they have a copy of the death certificate
that lists the cause of death. Poor GS got the other kind after a long series of screwups at the funeral home. The punch line here is that Evil Sister has already received a paper check for her share, and she's the one who didn't – OK, couldn't – contribute to rescuing Mom's house from the reverse mortgage. No good deed...
Another oh: Good Sister told me she doesn't want me using her as blog fodder, but I told her honestly that an awful lot of what we talked about is stuff that would be uninteresting or unintelligible to anyone but the United Sister Front. Either that, or I've already blogged it.
Third and final oh: The rental car had Bluetooth. I exposed Good Sister to Mark Farina and Depeche Mode's Violator LP. Hey, she who drives calls the tune.
*Yeah, I know, but I didn't want to pick a fight with GS over what's essentially my mom's funeral.
**
dreamsrundeep took me up one of those mountains to take in the amazing view and see the giant illuminated star that is the city's symbol. It claims to be the largest such star in the world, and I wouldn't dare dispute that.