sistawendy: me smirking on my stairs in a red patent corset with a flame-shaped bustline (devil girl smirk)
Why have I been quiet on here the last few days? Because I took the train down to Portland, Oregon for the Vampire Masquerade Ball! This was my fourth time going, with the previous time being in 2019, and it's lost none of its excitement for me. Read on for gothy goodness. I wrote an outline.

Things didn't exactly start auspiciously when I woke up around 0400 Friday, headed for the bathroom in the dark, and tripped over the suitcase that I'd forgotten I'd put there. I hit my face on the edge of a wall, thereby leaving a long, neat line of broken skin from my cheekbone to my chin. I count myself lucky that I didn't break my nose. Hey, maybe it helps me look more devilish.

Having iced my face, I made it to the train with plenty of time to spare, which wasn't hard because it was delayed by "unplanned track maintenance". And then, a little over halfway to Portland, the conductor informed us that there was a disabled train with no power for A/C (!) and that we were going to go back and rescue it. We ended up arriving in Portland about two hours late. Luckily, the person I most wanted to meet up with – [profile] ack_yeahright – was on the train with me.

As always when the two of us get together, there was overindulgence. This time it was both eetz and drinx. Portland is a better restaurant town than it has any right to be given its size; my companion informed me that it's because there's a culinary school there. In any case, the Green Room gets full marks from me. My only complaint is that the portions were just a tad too large for me.

We hit Moxy, which I belatedly realized is a hotel bar. Think the W in Seattle, only gayer and with more space. We drank nice drinks, some of them fruity. There was a third place that [profile] ack_yeahright took us to was one that she'd said earlier was a biker bar, but when we walked in there was a long line and obvious gentrification. Welcome to Portland. That's when we called it a night.

Slept insufficiently. Then hit Powell's City of Books and consumed badly needed carbs & caffeine. For those of you who've never been to Portland, this is what you must do when you go to Portland. I ran into Comfy Lady in the café, who was down for a show. I looked for new issues of my favorite comics series, but ended up with a used copy of The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo. Met up with [personal profile] cupcake_goth! I will confess that the chance to see her was very high on my list of reasons to be in Portland at all. She's back to emceeing the VMB for the first time since I was there last. Happiness.

Also there: someone I will label here as Frog Lady. She likes frogs. Her hair is green, as are many of her accessories. She's one of these people to whom I took an instant liking, but I unfortunately see her only once in a purple moon. She says that her health no longer permits her to get out and about much. Even ten years ago I didn't see her often. Too damn bad.

Napped. Praise Goddess!

Hit Toki, a Korean joint a few blocks away. Even shortly after 1700, which is when they open, they were mobbed, and for good reason. Their veggie noodles were amazeballs, and since I was at the bar I saw lots of artful cocktails under construction. (I just had some local rice lager, which tastes like... lager.)

Put the Devil Girl outfit on. Walked the three blocks to the Portland Art Museum, which was manageable even in my cloven-hooved Fluevog Grand Nationals. Chatted with an adorable apparent trans boy who'd come from Minnesota (!) for the VMB. Found a seat at the table with [personal profile] cupcake_goth, Froggy Lady & her beau, plus K and her brand new hubby. K deserves a goddamn paragraph.

K is an actual, factual fashionista who makes a dynamite outfit every time she goes to the VMB, which is more often than I do. This year was no exception. K loves to dance, and the way she'd weighted and reinforced the high-low skirt on that dress made it move, well, oh my. And she had this... collar, not exactly a ruff, made of boned black lace that stood straight up to the height of her head in back. There's probably a word for such things that I don't know. It was perfect for the event. And remember, this is the umpteenth outpouring of wearable creativity that I've seen by and on her since the mid aughts at the latest. It doesn't hurt that she's also really hot. Ahem.

And speaking of unfairly attractive women, when I was down in the vendor room there was a tall, slender woman with short, blonde, kinda gay (Foreshadowing!) hair who walked in wearing a stunning cream silk dress with wide red ribbon draped asymmetrically as trim. In that sea of dark clothing, even gorgeous dark clothing, it stood out like a beacon. I went up to her and complimented her on the dress. A minute or two later I was in the middle of the room with Frog Lady and Other K, when they mentioned that that was [Real first name]. Then the penny dropped.
"[Real full name]?" I asked. "Vienna La Rouge?"
Affirmative.
"Shit. Shit!"
Back in the aughts, before the Great Recession knocked out the Vogue, on Wednesday nights I used to go there and hang out with Vienna. She's a truly lovely woman in every sense. The last I heard, she left Seattle and her husband to pursue her burlesque career – for she's one of those good enough to make a career of it – in the Bay Area. I missed her.
At the VMB, I had to talk to her again. I explained that I hadn't recognized her the first time, and I had to explain to her who the hell I was. (Since she last saw me I've acquired purple hair, boobs, and hips.) She said that it wasn't too surprising that I couldn't recognize her with the much shorter hair. You see, she figured out that she's a lesbian. Oh, and she's moved back to Seattle.
There was a silent explosion in my head. "Welcome aboard!" I said.
She likes to hang out at the Mercury, she said. You know I do too. Our favorite night is Saturday. It kills me a little that my next two, maybe three Saturdays are spoken for. Oh by the way, she had a date. Yes, the date and I made prolonged eye contact at one point.

Back at the table I said to [personal profile] cupcake_goth, "Vienna La Rouge is back in Seattle and she's gay. Kill me before I do something stupid!"
"Go forth and sin, my child."
"She brought a date."
The esteemed MC appreciated my dilemma.

Indeed, Temptress told me later that night with great disappointment in her voice that Vienna is monogamous and has found someone good for her. And just to ice this cake, she says that V and I share the same unusual tastes that I don't write about in unlocked entries.

I talked to V again briefly after they turned on the house lights, pretty much reiterating what I said about the Merc. I must see her again, if only to confirm what Temptress told me. Oh. My. Goddess. Just think of what's happened with me since the last time I saw her: I started living as a woman, discovered the (ahem) unusual tastes, moved back into the city proper, etc. I can only imagine what's been going on with V.

By the way, Vienna La Rouge is a crack seamstress, like many burlesquers. There's an excellent chance that she made her dress, too.

I got flirted with by a woman – yet another crack costumer with a fella – who'd met me at Funny Lady's. I remembered her mercifully unusual name, but I hadn't recognized her. This was actually the third face blindness experience I had that night. Vienna and Other K were the other two.

There was only one dark spot to all of this: [personal profile] jengalicious's ex, who was there with Temptress and even on the same trains as I was. He kept turning up like a bad penny, at one time even sharing a hotel elevator with me. (Temptress seemed to have a knack for getting away from him for long enough to talk to other people who didn't want to go near him.) He's surely aware that he's despised by the whole Seattle contingent with the exception of his girlfriend, whom I've warned about him. Just as I was leaving the hotel, I saw Shiny H, who told me about her reason to hate him, which has nothing to do with the ones that the rest of us share. The man is truly a walking trash fire.

I did see Shiny H & girlfriend G, the latter of whom had never been before, during the event, but they bailed uncharacteristically early due to H's health issues. Sadness.

One more restaurant: the Daily Feast. It's a brunch joint, Portland style, meaning hot gay boy waiters and müsli pancakes with chai. I was lucky to get a seat at the bar when I did. Also yummers.

Tried reading my book in the shade by the public library to kill time before I got on the train, but people on the street made it weird. I went back to the hotel, said a final goodbye to folks and called a ride share to the train. (I later found out that I could have taken the light rail. Next time.)

The train home was zippy and uneventful. If all goes well, it's really the best way to get to & from Portland from Seattle.

Earlier yesterday I'd toyed with the idea of going to Flammable, Seattle's long-running house music night, because it's a long weekend here in the US of A. Hahahaha. No, I unpacked, crashed, and got eight hours of sleep for the first time in about a week.

This trip exceeded expectations, which were already pretty high.
sistawendy: my 2006 Prius at the dealership (Prius)
The background: back in the summer, my son & I went to the Hoh Valley rain forest. It was a lovely trip, but it involved about eight hours of driving on a lot of lonely roads. For our next road trip, my son requested something closer and less wild.

What better than Portland? I think the destination was my idea, but what to do there definitely was his: Powell's City of Books, the largest bookstore west of the Mississippi. I feel as if I'm not a complete failure as a parent.

On the way there, we stopped at the Tickler-recommended cluster of food trucks at 4th and Plum in Olympia, WA. For those of you who've never been there, Olympia, aside from being the state capital is a small city with more than its fair share of hippies. This means the food's pretty good. I don't remember ever having a felafel with pickled vegetables on it, and the Wendling loved his burrito.

On to Powell's! I got:
  • Arundhati Roy, The God Of Small Things - I may have read this already. If so, and I don't like reading it again, it'll go to the nearest Little Free Library sooner rather than later.
  • Ellen Forney, Marbles - Forney is a noted queer Seattle artist whose graphic memoir of her struggle with bipolar disorder was recommended to me in the strongest possible terms by Comfy Lady.
  • Alison Bechdel, Fun Home - Another graphic memoir. It's gay lit, and it's a hit. I kinda hafta, right?
  • Wole Soyinka, Chronicles from the Land of the Happiest People on Earth - Another kinda hafta. I'd heard the buzz. Now I'll read what it's about.
  • Jonathan Franzen, Crossroads - Ditto, really.
  • S.L. Huang, Zero Sum Game - I expect this to be a fun read. I got it from a Twitter thread that I have bookmarked of sci fi & fantasy recommendations.
  • Mary Doria Russell, The Sparrow - Ditto.
  • Natalie Zina Walschots, Hench - Ditto, except that this one a) was blurbed by Seanan McGuire, whom I know and trust, and b) seems as if it might have a similar feel to the Murderbot Diaries, which I loved.
After Powell's, drinks with [personal profile] audrey_eee in her part of Portland. For those who don't know, she's a native of Portland who got mixed up with the MOO kroo* up here in Seattle many years ago, then moved back to her hometown. It had been way too long since I saw her, and I'm glad to say she's doing well; at least until quite recently she was having a really hard pandemic. I told stories that embarrassed my son and made Audrey laugh. Mission accomplished. My son and I swapped drinks because he meant to order a Margarita, not a tequila shot.

At Audrey's recommendation we went to an Ethiopian place** not far away. The Wendling grumbled, saying that the first time he tried Ethiopian he didn't like it. But when I learned that that was when he was ten years old, I insisted. He likes it. To tell you the truth, I've had Ethiopian that I liked better here***, but it wasn't bad. The waiter and probably co-owner is a wise guy. That's right, an Ethiopian wise guy. Oh, Portland.

Our rule with the car is that my son pays for gas, and I pay for everything else. We weren't critically low on gas, but the Wendling's anxiety got the better of him so he insisted on buying gas in Portland. That's when he (re-)learned about Oregon's no-self-service law, and that he was paying for that by not buying gas in Washington, which was of course just a few minutes away. Lesson learned.

Was this trip as good as the latex dinner I skipped for it? In its own way, yes, it was.



*Once a MOOer, always a MOOer.
**Bete-Lukas.
***Meskel, on Cherry St. Also a favorite of Comfy Lady's.
sistawendy: my Fluevog Atria boots as I'm standing in them (boots boootz)
Happiness is when you wear your Fluevog Atria boots, pictured here, and [personal profile] cupcake_goth says, "I can't believe you can walk in those." Happiness is not when your bunion and your left knee complain at you for days afterward. It pains me (Ha!) to admit it, but I shouldn't do that kind of thing any more often than I do. You know I'm wearing flats to Pride Eve, because that's a ton of walking all over the Hill and maybe beyond; I've finally learned that lesson.

But the worst bummer was what I encountered as I was walking to my car after brunch: some dude in a trucker cap - bad sign - and a t-shirt that read "Free Alex Jones / Don't Censor Me" with the familiar Gadsden flag snake. This being Portland, there's a small chance it was hipster irony, but I doubt that even Portland hipsters have such poor taste. I hope he noticed the stink eye I gave him from behind my sunglasses. Yeah, that town has a Nazi problem.
sistawendy: me in the Mercury's alley with the wind catching my hair (smoldering windblown Merc alley)
After five years, I made it to another Vampire Masquerade Ball at the Portland Art Museum.

When I was hanging out in the lobby at one point, I just happened to run into Lady Raven, the organizatrix of this whole shindig, as she closed her eyes and heaved what looked like a sigh of intense relief. Because I'm terrible, I told her, "I saw that sigh. It's beautiful. It's always beautiful." No lie: everything about this was right on, and even better than the previous two times I've been - '09 and '14. Venue? Better. Entertainment? Better. DJs? Better. Drink lines? Better. Vendors? Better, with at least double the number I saw five years ago. I'm lucky that scale mail top didn't fit me, but you know I have the vendor's card*.

Never seen an aerialist use chains before. That's gotta hurt.

But the real reason one goes to the VMB is to see what people wear. It's the Met Gala for Goths. Let's put it this way: I wore my 50th birthday outfit and I felt like I was slumming it. Part of the reason for that slummy feeling is that the Goth DIY ethos is at its gorgeously excessive peak with that crowd. Elaborate, often historically-inspired costumes made from scratch, or painstakingly modified, are the norm or close to it. I didn't take pictures because a) low, friendly lighting; b) I suck at remembering to take pictures; and c) I doubt I would have done much of it justice anyway.

Salacious details? I'm afraid I must disappoint you a little. There was some flirtation with the Temptress and customary hair pulling from a certain old Burning Man buddy, but no dance floor makeouts this time. I don't mind too terribly much, though.

For one thing, I think this VMB may have been magical for somebody besides me. I've been enjoined from saying anything too specific, but I think that a friend of mine who needs to do something to improve her situation has finally realized it. Most gratifying.

So I, uh, had a few vodka & Red Bulls in a successful attempt to stay awake until the party ended, specifically 0200. I got to bed Sunday a little after 0300. I woke up a little before 0700, and listened to my heart beat beat fast until it was time to get up, put on the Gallery Serpentine outfit, and check out by noon. In other words, caffeine really works on me and I definitely overdid it.

I did, however drive across Portland to have lovely brunch with [personal profile] trystbat at Tasty 'n Daughters, which is the successor to the mysteriously closed Tasty 'n Sons that the Tickler took me too back in January. Yeah, it's a good brunch place so it took us half an hour to get a table - not the advertised 45 minutes - but the food was fab, and so was the conversation. Pity we're going to miss each other the next time I'm in the Bay Area.

I spent a little bit of time at Powell's with [personal profile] m_cobweb & [personal profile] darkmane, and then we bopped back up the freeway on a beautiful Sunday evening.

I owe [personal profile] audrey_eee an apology for not even remembering to get in touch until I was on my way out of town. Moral: spend more time down there, and don't go through Portland like a dose of salts. Still, though, I'm glad I went.



*Yeah, I want a scale mail top for my next Burn. Just not right now.
sistawendy: me in my nun costume with my duster cross, looking hopeful (hopeful nun)
I leave for the Vampire Ball in Portland with [personal profile] m_cobweb & [personal profile] darkmane on Saturday afternoon. It can't come soon enough. My outfit has been chosen - it's my 50th birthday outfit, so I feel only a tiny bit of shame for not making a more creative effort - and my packing list & directions are printed out. If you'll recall, the last time I was there I met the Temptress, which began a long & lovely relationship. Would I mind if lightning struck a second time? Hell no. And maybe this time I won't be one of those tacky dykes who make out on the dance floor, but I make no promises.

Speaking of dykes, I have a date with the Proprietress next weekend. That's lovely in and of itself, but our tentatively planned activity is at night. Problem: I've been getting up at 0600 on most weekdays for the last year and a half, ever since I changed teams at work, because I wanted to get my morning ride in before my team's meetings. This means that staying up late is harder for me than it used to be, also hello, I'm in my fifties. (Yeah, this has been a problem with dating generally of late.) I'm wondering when and how I should abuse caffeine. Yerba mate in my car or in my fridge? I certainly don't want to disappoint the Prope by pooping out on her.

But getting back to Portland, between Powell's, meeting up with friends, carpooling commitments, and a possible hangover, I wonder if I'll be able to make it to Cider Riot. They're the ones going after Nazis in court for messing with their business, so I wanted to at least sample their cider.
sistawendy: my 2006 Prius at the dealership (Prius)
It's been longer than usual since I last posted, but it's for a happy reason: the Tickler and I went to Portland as the festivities for my birthday, observed. The main event: Paul Oakenfold's show, which I'll get to below. But first things first.

I picked up the Tickler at her new place on the outskirts of Olympia. Naturally enough, it's a big house for one person, but she says it doesn't make a good party pad because it's on septic, not the sewer system. It's nice and quiet, though.

We stayed at the Jupiter Hotel, which I picked for its proximity to the show. I'd walked past it a time or two on other trips to Portland (a Vampire Ball or two?) so I knew it was a hipster joint. Yeah, you could say the whole city is a hipster joint and not be wrong, but it's particularly obvious at the Jupiter: apparently it was once what the Tickler called a "no-tell motel" that's been renovated and then some. There was a bright, mind-melting mural on one wall of our room, and there were weed-related amenities available. (The Tickler brought edibles, which I must say made the mural even more interesting.) They provide ear plugs, which the Tickler desperately wanted for the show, but she could have used them to sleep: the Douglas Fir, which is a live music venue, is right next door, and the hotel itself has thin walls and young, loud, hipster guests. I'd go there again, but as a tourist, not for business.

Portland is a better restaurant town than it has any right to be, so after I took a badly needed nap - I'd been awake since 0415 - and extensive discussion, the Tickler took me to Teote, a South American (read: Venezuelan) place. It's not the fanciest joint: they give you numbers. But they have a huge patio, lots of Latin American customers, excellent people watching - "queerdos", said the Tickler - and mighty fine penil served in Fiesta ware. I've discovered that I could eat their arepas until I pop.

The show itself? I have to tell you, I might have liked it better if I'd gotten more sleep beforehand. However, Oakenfold delivered the trance both old and new, as did his immediate opener, Portlander Jamie Meushaw. The Tickler is a lot less reticent than I am about shoving her way to the front and center of a crowded club floor. Hello, trans-related insecurity! We also had fun doing raver culture bingo: the dragon onesie, fluffies, a fake fur vest, a kilt, etc. But there was also the über-gay rhinestone cowboy; the short, sequined dresses; and the geriatric ravers even older than I am.

The club, 45 East, is a professional joint with good sound and lasers in the middle of a still-light-industrial part of town by the Willamette. Walking there was a little tricky because of a) an overpass where we didn't expect it and b) the tents of the homeless occupying the whole width of the sidewalk. The Tickler figured Oakie could have filled a bigger hall, and I think she's right. There wasn't room to dance at 45 East except for upstairs, which was noteworthy for its long benches against one wall that faithfully transmitted vibrations from the subwoofers to our nether regions. Ahem.

We stayed until the house lights went up, then took a Lyft to a concentration of the food trucks for which Portland is famous at SE 12th & Hawthorne. I had what I must admit was a mighty fine felafel; the Tickler, who's spent a fair amount of time in the Middle East, said it was properly green on the inside and remarked on the quality of the pita. You see what Portland is like? So yeah, we nommed outdoors at 0300; the gas fires couldn't ward off the chilly wind but the big tent they had could. We went back to the Jupiter and slept the sleep of the just.

Brunch today? The Tickler thought she'd been to Tasty 'N Sons, which a cow orker of mine had also recommended, but when we got there she realized she hadn't. No matter: it's fan-damn-tastic. Definitely worth the half-hour wait, which we put to good use by consuming some lovely cocktails. (Mine was necessarily coffee-based.) I had the chicken-fried pork with venison gravy, and I say with the authority of a child of the South that their biscuits were right on. So was the kim chi I ordered on the side.

Yeah, we went to Powell's City of Books because we were in Portland. What kind of Philistines do you take us for? Books I bought: 3. Books the Tickler bought: ≥ 12. Dropped off the Tickler, swatted her kinky kitty. Came home. Gonna collapse now.
sistawendy: me in my suffraget costume raising a finger in front of the Vogue (oh yeah)
Last night my cow-orkers and I hit Mediterranean Exploration Company and got the $40-per-person chef's choice for our party of what, 15? Astounding food & service. It's the kind of place that Aspiring Ex would give her left ovary to eat at. I lost count of the courses - eight? ten? - but absolutely all of them were right on in terms of presentation, originality, and just plain nom. I noted that the bathroom signs and several other decorations were in Hebrew, so yeah, Israel is on the Mediterranean. And yeah, the hostess was young, cute, and Jewish-looking. Shaddup.

After I high-scored Asteroids at Ground Kontrol, my wrists started to complain, so unlike the me of thirty-five years ago, I had the sense to leave. I hit Powell's because you gotta, and called it a night at a reasonable hour so I wouldn't, you know, get anyone killed while driving us home.

But wait! This morning, we hit Tasty & Alder for a family-style brunch. Amazing. It's not-quite-traditional fare, so if you're not a militant meatie you can find something you'll like without any trouble.

I skipped Blue Star Donuts right before we left. I figured I needed them like I need an extra hole in my head.
sistawendy: my 2006 Prius at the dealership (Prius)
I'm at StartupCo's Portland office for a day of meetings.

I drove a minivan load of co-workers down. Moral: even newish cars need a 1/8" cable to plug an iPod into the stereo. One of my passengers took from Seattle to Olympia to get his phone to connect to the stereo, true to his prediction. He's a hero.

We're staying at the Ace Hotel, which has an exorbitant quantity of wood everywhere; painfully quirky decor; a view of a blank wall; tiny rooms without with hidden empty hangers but with fridges and, at least in my case, an enormous white-tiled bathroom. The last bathroom I saw that looked like that belonged to a drag queen in San Francisco's Potrero Hill. I can't help but wonder what the Ace expects its guests to get up to.

Much tasty beer at Bailey's Taproom, which has a big upstairs room that's usually empty with a separate entrance that virtually impossible to find from the street. Hard-to-find bars are apparently a thing down here. It's like Chuck's Hop Shop with way less attitude and way more class.

We then hit old sk00l video arcade Ground Kontrol: Centipede, Asteroids, Tempest, etc. Nostalgia heaven.

All of us had dinner together at Shigezo Izakaya: Japanese food & adult beverages, salaryman style. The food's good - mm, okonomiyaki - but what you really go for is the atmosphere. Yes, I told my co-workers Burning Man stories.

We hit a hard-to-find hipster whiskey joint that didn't have room for us all. No matter: the bar on the next block wasn't as hip, but it was much roomier and had just as much wood.

Much to my surprise, I was crippled only by lack of sleep and not a hangover this morning. Breakfast was a PB&J milkshake at Brunch Box. Yes, it's hipster, but it's a hipster hole in the wall with good food and a cute, charismatic young woman behind the counter.

StartupCo's Portland office is the victim of interior design hipsters.

In summation, Portlandia is a documentary. Portland is full of things that look really cool but don't quite work, and an incredible amount of reasonably priced choice food, beverages, and amusement.

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